This modestly furnished Clerkenwell pioneer is as good as ever, serving tough but elegant British cuisine.
Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver’s restaurant, now the heart of a mini-empire with branches in Spitalfields and Marylebone, as well as bakeries and a wine dealership, has been lauded for reintroducing the British to the full potential of local produce, particularly anything gutsy and offal-ish.
Perhaps more influential, however, has been its resolutely casual style: a Michelin-starred restaurant for individuals who shudder at the mere thought. The mezzanine dining area in this former Smithfield smokehouse has plain white walls, scuffed floorboards, and tables arranged canteen-style; the below bar, which serves excellent nibbles and main menu highlights, is similarly simple. The staff are able to chat without allowing anything to go off-track.
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